I start reading ‘The Swansong of Wilbur McCrum’ by Bronia Kita. It’s set in the
Wild West and our hero is first encountered dressed in women’s clothes, shot
and drowning in a well. As he drowns his life flashes before him and he
recounts the peculiar events that led him there. It’s a winsome concoction,
picaresque and addictive. If the Coen brothers hadn’t done things so
definitively with ‘True Grit’ they’d surely be all over this dark comedy caper.
We visit a local vineyard to stock up on
our favourite Rose wine. Clos Landry
is a pale, dry ’gris’ that after a lot of testing we’ve judged the best on the island. We have a free tasting, buy a box and move on to Calvi having arranged to meet up with Steve and Jane to do a late afternoon
walk. Occi is a deserted village perched perched spectacularly above the gulf of Calvi. We park up in
Lumio and ascend the rocky path towards a village that was deserted over one hundred
years ago.
The village well dried up and the hour ‘s walk down into Lumio and
back became a trudge so the locals debunked, downhill to a less dry, less
spectacular abode. We sit above the ruins and the view is spectacular: the
shimmering bay of Calvi through the silhouetted ruins; if you lean in you can
hear the ancient voices, the children running through the streets, the sheep
and goats running wild within the confines of the walled village. Eerie and
evocative, this is a special place. We bask in the sun before descending and I
recognize this as one of life’s great therapeutic pleasures; absorbing the day’s
last redemptive rays. The warmth of the sun is something we haven’t enjoyed
since our last visit in September and we can feel the healing.
Back down the
hill in no time and I drive the four of us back to the house where we shower
and share a late supper: a starter of Parmigiani and bread, – baked aubergine in a tomato sauce with anchovy
fillets, melted mozzarella, parmesan and basil, (which Di inevitably dribbles
all down the front of her party dress) followed by sautéed chicken fillets in
parsley butter with balsamic chips, salad and more of that garlicky aioli. Lots
of red. Cheese of Brebis and Chevre served with with fig jam and a desert of almond
chocolate and brandy. Knackered and pissed we convince our guests to sleep
over.
Ipod: We fall asleep to the strains of Daniel Barenboim playing Beethoven Piano Sonatas. I wish we’d had this music up in Occi, it would have been perfect.
Song of the day: Sonata number 15: ‘Pastoral’.
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